A fabric can look right on a small swatch and still create problems in production. Before confirming an order, turn the important details into written requirements that both buyer and supplier can check.
1. Judging quality only by touch
A pleasant handle is useful, but it is not proof of wash durability, abrasion resistance or colorfastness. Finishing can alter the first impression. Compare the approved sample with the material after the intended care process, and choose performance checks that match the garment’s use.
Also inspect the surface, texture, visible faults, opacity and drape. Keep a labelled approval swatch so later comparisons are anchored to an actual reference.
2. Assuming a standard shrinkage percentage
There is no single shrinkage figure that fits all fabrics. Fiber, yarn, construction and finishing all influence dimensional change. Washing, drying and pressing conditions matter too.
Agree a test method and acceptance criteria. Measure length and width separately, and review twisting or skew where relevant. Use representative material and confirm the sample garment’s measurements after care before finalizing pattern allowances. Do not add a guessed percentage to every pattern.
3. Approving color without a bulk shade plan
A color name or code does not guarantee identical shade across dye lots. Agree an approved color reference, viewing conditions and acceptable variation. Request relevant lot samples, identify shade groups and keep cutting and assembly controlled so mismatched panels are not combined in one garment.
Even material from the same lot needs checking for variation across and along the fabric. Record the handling plan when multiple lots are unavoidable.
4. Buying gross quantity instead of usable material
For length-based purchases, define the measured length, usable width and treatment of faults. For weight-based purchases, clarify net fabric weight, packaging and paper-core deductions. Fabric GSM and usable width affect the area available for cutting; neither nominal roll weight nor a headline price tells the whole story.
Write the measurement method, tolerances and shortage-resolution process into the order. Compare quotations on the same basis.
5. Leaving care and decoration until the end
Washing, tumble drying, pressing and decoration can change fabric behavior. Check the planned printing or embroidery method on the actual fabric and review the result after care. A successful test on one material does not automatically transfer to a different finish or blend.
Before confirming bulk production
- Approved fabric code, composition, construction, GSM and usable width.
- Color reference, shade-control plan and lot identification.
- Agreed performance tests, methods and acceptance criteria.
- Approved garment sample, measurements and care procedure.
- Quantity basis, tolerances, packing and issue-resolution terms.
Send these details with your project brief so questions can be resolved during sampling rather than after the bulk order is complete.
Further reading: CottonWorks: shrinkage and skewing.